Donkeys on Weymouth Beach Watercolour Tutorial
I spotted these lovely animals having a well earned rest in the shade and was immediately inspired by the contrast of the light donkey against the darker one, making this my focal point for a close up portrait study.
Materials used:
Daniel Smith Extra Fine Watercolours (tubes)
Colours:
- Yellow Ochre
- Cadmium Yellow Light Hue
- English Red Ochre
- Permanent Alizarin Crimson
- Cerulean Blue
- Ultramarine Blue
- Cobalt Blue
Bromleys Blue Masking Fluid
Watercolour Paper – Arches 140lb / 300gsm Rough
Brushes – Panart Series – 1181 Synthetic Squirrel Mop size 16 for all large areas
Panart Series 1101 Synthetic Sable Watercolour Brush Round size 20 for smaller areas and all details
Click here to download a free printable sketch here and use Transfer Paper to trace it on to your watercolour paper.
Tonal Sketch
The tonal sketch helps me tune in to the subject, confirm my composition, assess the tonal values and how I’m going to paint it. This is so important when working in watercolour as it’s very difficult to make any drastic changes once you start painting. I used a combination of sketchbook studies and photos to create my final design.
Step 1
I first drew the composition onto the watercolour paper with a 2B pencil, followed by masking the straps and buckles that make up the donkey’s bridal with Bromleys blue masking fluid. This will protect these finer details when painting the animals later.
Step 2
Once the masking fluid was dry, I tinted the background and the darker Donkey with a pale wash of Yellow Ochre, using the Panart Mop. This foundation wash suggests the warm sunshine, reveals the shape of the lighter animal and also makes a good base coat for the darker colours to follow. I then allowed this wash to dry completely.
Step 3
The background and the darker Donkey come next, starting with the overhead canopy. I used Cerulean Blue with a little touch of Cadmium Yellow Light to make a pale turquoise. Starting with a very dilute wash, I then used a thicker mix of the same 2 colours, working wet in wet, to suggest the soft shadows on the canopy fabric.
The distant buildings on the right are treated very simply, to help them recede. The main point is that they help define the edge of the canopy. I mixed a wash of Yellow Ochre with a little English Red Ochre, making a warm beige for the overall shape of the buildings. This was blocked in with a loose wash, carefully leaving some of the underpainting showing around the donkey’s head.
While this wash was still wet, I added a suggestion of windows with a thicker mix of Cobalt Blue and Permanent Alizarin Crimson. This creates a soft focus effect, helping the background to recede. I continued with this mix to create a darker shape behind the donkey’s nose. This in turn helps to define the donkey and also enhances the light falling on its nose and the hay that it is eating.
I then painted the dark brown donkey. It’s ears were a lighter tone, as was the area around its eyes. I also noted the transition of these light and dark areas was soft edged, so I knew it had to be painted wet into wet. I first painted the nose, using a pale mix of the same colour used for the area behind it.
I then mixed a warm brown with Yellow Ochre and English Red Ochre. Although this colour is for the donkey’s ears and the lighter area around its eye, I painted it over everything that will be dark brown as well. While this first wash is still wet, I then use a thicker mix of Burnt Umber, darkened with a little Ultramarine Blue to develop the darker areas.
It’s important to leave a halo of the lighter colour around the eye and also stop at the base of the ear. I finally added a touch of the dark mix to suggest the inside of the ear and also where the brown colour fades into the lighter grey of the nose, softening this edge against the bridal with a damp brush.
Step 4
I removed the masking fluid on the brown donkey by lightly rubbing it with my finger, then painted the bridal with the same turquoise mix I had used for the overhead canopy earlier. I added shadows to the buckles using the purple grey mix used on the nose, careful to leave a few highlights of white paper.
The eye was first painted with English Red Ochre, adding the darker outline with a thick mix of Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue while it was still wet to soften the edges. I also used the dark brown for the nostril on the donkey’s nose.
Finally, I added the shadows falling across the ground and the hay on the right, using a pale mix of Cobalt Blue, Permanent Alizarin Crimson and a little English Red and Yellow Ochre to warm it up. These shadows are very important as they define the light falling on the hay and on the foreground donkey’s face. I used quick, dry brush strokes across the ground area to suggest the texture of the sand.
Step 5
The foreground donkey came next. It has a much lighter tone and I blocked in the main forms with the same mix used for the shadows on the ground, careful to leave a highlight on the front of its head as untouched paper. Once this was dry, I painted its mane with a dark mix of Burnt Umber and Ultramarine, lightly flicking the brush to create the stiff shape of the hair.
The ear was painted using the same process as for the other donkey. Starting with a pale wash of Yellow Ochre, I worked wet in wet, modelling the shape of the ear with darker and thicker mixes of English Red Ochre and Burnt Umber.
Note – It’s worth practicing this technique on some scrap paper first, to get a feel for how thick a mix needs to be so that it creates a soft edge without travelling too far.
Step 6
Once dry, I modelled the shadows on the donkey’s neck and around it’s jaw using a darker mix of the purply grey, then adding the darker patches on its face using Burnt Umber and a little English Red Ochre. Once dry, I removed the masking fluid on its bridal.
Finally, I added the legs of the dark brown donkey that can be seen bottom left, starting with a strong mix of Yellow Ochre and English Red Ochre, then adding deeper shadows with Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue, keeping the blends soft by working wet into wet.
Step 7
The bridal was painted with Cobalt Blue, adding the shadows with Ultramarine and Alizarin Crimson. The buckles were defined with Yellow Ochre and Burnt Umber, leaving a few highlights to suggest the polished brass surfaces.
Final details included the donkey’s eye, mouth and nostril. The eye was first painted with English Red Ochre and Yellow Ochre, careful to leave the eyelashes around the top edge, then adding the darker shading with Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue while wet to suggest the rounded shape of the eyeball.
This dark brown mix was then used for the nostril as well, careful to leave a highlight at the bottom. A dilute mix of Cobalt Blue and a little Alizarin Crimson was used to model the shadows around the edges of the nostril.
I defined the mouth with a fine line of dark grey, adding a little pink to the mix around the edge of the chin using very dilute Alizarin Crimson.
Step 8
The pile of hay was painted with Yellow Ochre, adding darker tones with Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue while still wet to suggest the texture and shadows. I also added some dry brushed lines of Burnt Umber for the hay hanging from the donkey’s mouth.
I darkened the shadows behind the light donkey’s forehead with a thin wash of Cobalt Blue and English Red Ochre, carefully splattering a little of the same mix with an old toothbrush across the ground below to suggest the sandy texture.
I then added the ropes hanging down from the bridals of both animals, using a thick mix of Burnt Umber and French Ultramarine. Note how I have used a dry brush technique for these lines, creating shapes that they have a sense of movement and light falling on them. While the dark brown mix was still on my brush, I added a few darker accents to the manes on both donkeys, and the painting was finished.
What a wonderful tutorial. I love donkeys!
The artwork is really inspiring. Thank you to the teacher artist who made it available for us.
And I found the way the steps are laid out so clear. The preview showing the different stages of the painting in progress make you want to give it a go and not so afraid of it looking odd halfway through.
Thank you for posting this. I will have a look at some of your other tutorials.
I am only a recent customer with you. And I hadn’t expected this kind of nice content from an art shop before. Super!
Briliant and so helpful
An excellent tutorial would love to give this a try excellent lesson Paul kindest regards Steve